The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

I posted this by mistake in the photo gallery, and didn't know how to delete it from there.
Just got it back yesterday, and put it all back together this morning. Replaced the recoil spring with the 22 lb. one ( plus x- power firing pin spring), and installed the 18 lb. hammer spring.
I had ordered some new parts as spares, and on reassembly, I decided to install the new disconnector, hammer strut,trigger bar, and sear. Oh, and the hammer, which was Cerakoted, was new also. Nothing wrong with the old parts.... I just replaced them on the spur of the moment.
The 18 lb. still seems REALLY stout with double pull, but more importantly, every 20 or so dry fires in DA, the sear does not reset fully. I took the slide off and watched things, and when it doesn't reset, it just needs a tiny push on the sear(1/32 in.) or so to go forward and reset.
Maybe the new/sharp angles on the new sear? Or something to do with the hammer angles being "coated"?
Heck, I dont even know if the parts were really new or not. They came from Robert in Poland. The trigger bar and sear had a fine amount of oxidation on them, but they looked new.
I never have an issue in SA, only DA.
I'll try to soot it soon and see what happens. If it keeps on not resetting, I'l just replace the new parts with the old ones!

Let us know how it does at the range. If it's just any ever so slight push, the vibration from the recoil might be enough to correct it. Maybe it just needs to be broken back in.

Also I hope you are using snap caps to dry fire. If you aren't using snap caps, you run the risk of breaking the firing pin and/or the safety and those aren't easy to find. I know of at least three people on hear looking for replacements for broken safetys. Always use snap caps!

I don't have any input to offer on your issue except to try the old parts again.

I do want to say that the gun sure turned out pretty! Who did the cerakote?

I live about 45 minutes away from this guy. He also did my CZ 82, and that turned out great too. Nice guy also.

Most firearms, especially from that era, required at least a small amount of factory hand-fitting, meaning your odds of just assembling one by pulling new parts from bins and having it work perfectly was not statistically probable. There would be some amount of choosing parts that worked together better, and some amount of adjusting/filing/polishing to work out minor functional issues, like the one you describe, when the fit was really close to ideal.

100% interchangeability requires extremely tight tolerances in manufacturing, which were especially expensive to achieve (before the advent of CNC machining), hence the hand-fitting.

I would suggest swapping in your old sear; just a guess, but this is likely the part that would have been hand-adjusted to tune the distance from the trigger to the hammer.

I got it dirty today, and had zero problems after shooting 100 rounds of reloads.
Guess it just needed to be worked a little.

jabski wrote:I got it dirty today, and had zero problems after shooting 100 rounds of reloads.
Guess it just needed to be worked a little.

Good to hear. Nice looking gun. Let us now how the finish holds up. Do you plane on carrying it or is it a Range piece?

Thanks for the comments.
Right now, I'll probably just shoot it at the range or at my buddys place. The grips are a little chunky for carry, but not out of the question.
I need a decent holster for it if I carry though. I like leather over Kydex, and the refinisher commented about the finish being pretty tough, but not invulnerable. I imagine Kydex would wear it some if used a lot.
I have a Kahr p380 that I usually carry in the summer. I may just get a Remora to use with this for a while. I've heard good things about them. I'd love another HBE Pro TL, but the funds are getting kind of tight now, so....
With the recoil spring and the grips, it seems to tame the recoil a bit.
Love this gun! Polish pistol for the Polish owner!

Nice looking piece.