The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

What if you file the aft side of the safety around the firing pin, so that the hammer can push the firing pin forward more, or longer before the hammer face is stopped by the safety. Would this increase primer strike force on guns with lightened hammer springs???

I wouldn't attempt this. First off, you will be playing around with the firing pin protrusion which can cause punctured primers, hot gasses in your face, not pleasant. Second, there are no parts for this gun so you'll be SOL if mess something up. If your hammer spring isn't working right, then move up to the next pound weight.

I'd like to see something better than just the 18lb spring kit because in double action, the transfer bar is torquing and bending like crazy. I wonder if some old armorer in Poland REALLY knows what all they did to bugger up the original design and for what reasons. I wonder if they might have shortened the back end of the firing pin. I'm having fun tinkering anywho.

I tried going very light with the hammer spring. It took five trigger pulls to fire correctly.
Then I took the firing pin spring from my kit and cut several coils off. It then only took two pulls to fire.
It looks like if the safety face were cut too much, the top of the hammer could impact the slide which might cause some bizarre bind-up deal so I'm leaning away from that.
I'm wondering if the original design had a firing pin with a longer aft end on it. The firing pin is an inertia design; it's not touching the hammer and primer at the same time. If somebody was handy, it would be interesting to lenghten the back of the firing pin somehow to see if light strikes could be eliminated without puncturing a primer. Maybe glue a slug of metal on the end. If these could be fixed with a couple touches of a tig weld, these could be smooth like an old Walther.

juniustaylor wrote:I wouldn't attempt this. First off, you will be playing around with the firing pin protrusion which can cause punctured primers, hot gasses in your face, not pleasant. Second, there are no parts for this gun so you'll be SOL if mess something up. If your hammer spring isn't working right, then move up to the next pound weight.

When you replaced the hammer spring, did you remember to put the strut washer on before the spring? That may make a difference.

The transfer bar is designed such that it needs the grip in place to hold it in position. Or is the transfer bar bending with the grip in place?

tomline

what year is your gun , or what hammer do you have on your gun, would be a better question , I have said this before sometimes even the 18 # hammer spring isn't enough to pop the primer , and someone could of shot wolf ammo out of the gun before and brunt the tip of the firing pin, don't know need more info

NORM