trigger pull question

[mikana]

DA trigger is stiff but I can handle it on my (new to me) 1971 P64. I do notice at the end of the travel it takes a little extra pressure to actually get it to break. I guess it's the spring initially then the spring plus the sear at the end. Is that pretty standard?

[ramiriz60]

ramiriz 60

I found that my 1971 P-64 in virtually unfired condition was real stiff in DA mode.

My fix is as follows. clean all cosmoline, and then add 18 lb hammer spring & 20 lb recoil spring by " wolf " file the ends of the recoil spring flat to match factory profile, Makes slide come off easier. Lube safety, trigger bar, trigger and hammer & sear surfaces with " MOLY grease " from Midway U.S.A oil rest of gun. use snap caps. work trigger about 100 pulls in DA mode, and work safety on & off till it smooths out. The Moly grease is black and nasty, but you only have to do it once or twice, as it works into the metal. after the initial lubing I wipe down my P-64 with an oily rag every night after IWB carry and run a lightly oiled patch through bore about once or twice weekly. You should notice a vast improvement in your DA trigger pull.

Good luck Ron.

[gunneyrabbit]

ramiriz60, very interesting, it sounds like you are actually working the molybdenum into the surface metal of the parts. I know that it is amazing on lead bullets, I shoot nothing but moly coated lead and the recoil is almost non-existent. I load all of my loads at full throtal with no leading what so ever and the bullets are intact when they hit the targets, something that is unheard of with straight lead bullets. According to the manufacturer the lead never vaporizes at the base of the bullet so no worrys regarding breathing the lead vapores either. Evidently the melting point of the molybdenum coating is so much higher than stainless steel that it is used straight in some applicationes, chemicaly bonded with out the benefit of grease to hold it in place.
G.R.

[shane!comeback]

mikana, My '75 is the exact same way. It is heavy, especially at the end. I do plan on getting the Wolff spring to help.
I will give the Moly grease a try. Thanks ramiriz and gunny for the information. I never thought of it! I also plan on giving all the trigger friction points a good polishing.

[juniustaylor]

You probably don't have to buy the grease from Midway. Auto Parts stores have moly grease used for engine applications. You get a 1 lb tub of the stuff that would last 5 lifetimes. And you can get it from your local O'Reilly's or AutoZone for $2.99. Midway is looking for $13 on a 4oz can of moly spray and $17 from a 2 oz. tub of moly grease. I don't see why the auto grease wouldn't work, maybe someone else will chime in and say if it's worthwhile or not.

[Autosurgeon]

Yep it's the same stuff!

[tomline]

Does the transfer bar rub the inside of the slide? I've polished the transfer bar and applied grease where it rubs the slide above the trigger area and it smooths things out a bit. If there's a sharp edge on the front edge of the transfer bar, break that a bit. I also polish the sides of the mainspring rod.

DA trigger is stiff but I can handle it on my (new to me) 1971 P64. I do notice at the end of the travel it takes a little extra pressure to actually get it to break. I guess it's the spring initially then the spring plus the sear at the end. Is that pretty standard?

[electross]

Does the transfer bar rub the inside of the slide? I've polished the transfer bar and applied grease where it rubs the slide above the trigger area and it smooths things out a bit. If there's a sharp edge on the front edge of the transfer bar, break that a bit. I also polish the sides of the mainspring rod.

DA trigger is stiff but I can handle it on my (new to me) 1971 P64. I do notice at the end of the travel it takes a little extra pressure to actually get it to break. I guess it's the spring initially then the spring plus the sear at the end. Is that pretty standard?

Yep, that will do it. This works everytime