The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

nametrux

I use a Lyman lube sizer, the die is suppose to be a .363 but it's actually .364

NORM

Hey Norm, I,ve read what you suggested for a good reloading set up. The Lyman Crusher 2 Single Stage press from grafs.com. Do you see any problem going to the Lyman T-Mag 2 Turret press,there's only about $25.00 diff. Just getting back into reloading, I though that I wouldn't need to up grade later that way.
thanks nlvoldy40

nlvoldy40

don't know any thing about them, the only i do know about Turret press the bolt that holds the Turret tines to blend after a while , at lest on the old ones did , if you ever get into loading a for snider or a martini henry you are better off getting a RCBS rock chucker , the Lyman will not take a 1 in , die

NORM

Norm, thanks for the info. will let you know what I end up with and how it works out.
p.s. just got my 4th P-64, I haven't cleaned it yet. Still soaking in cleaner.

thanks again : nlvoldy

Hay NORM, I'm all set up to start pouring 9x18 lead bullets, a friend of mine gave me a lead warmer and I have about sixty pounds of lead ready to melt plus a bunch of tin to go into the mix. I purchased a can of Franklin Arsenal release agent from MIDWAY USA and I know to heat the Lee mold before I pour the molten metal. My only question is how long do I let the lead set before seperation?
G.R.

G.R.

you should be able to tell when the sprue gets hard , it will take less than a min.

NORM

Thanks NORM, I'm starting off with a two bullet mold so I can't foul up to much the first time out, wish me luck.
G.R.

I've cast roundballs and 320 grain bullets for my muzzleloaders. You can definitely tell when the lead has cooled to a good level. It'll get a hazy look on the sprue. Whack it with a mallet, preferrably a wood one so you don't damage the cutter. It literally took a few seconds to harden. However, on a side note, if your lead is too hot when you go to whack the sprue, it will sometimes pull a chunk out of the bullet being cast. This is because the lead was too hot in the mold and didn't harden before you whacked it. There are several YouTube videos out there on how to do it. If you don't have someone, a friend, that can show you how it's done, YouTube is practically the next best thing.

If you got the aluminum block mold, don't bother heating them before you start. It literally takes a couple rounds, less than 5 for those blocks to get scalding hot. Simply pour the lead in them and process them like you were going to keep them. Just throw them back into the pot to melt down again. When I set my aluminum blocks in the lead to preheat, it made them perform terrible. Also, don't bother making a carbon layer in them either. I noticed it actually seemed to cause my bullets to deform. Just run a few through and you will KNOW when they look good. The form of the bullet will be sharp and crisp.

FWIW, I hope this helps some.

Good Info for me also..I gathering stuff to start casting and reloading.

NORM and Junius, thanks for the info., much appreciated.
G.R.

I have to agree I have used Lee dies for over 20 yrs. and never had a problem .
The Carbide dies are the way to go and easy to adjust .
I have 4 different presses and use all of them for a different reason.
It is fun and a lot cheaper to reload .
I have found out what load each gun likes or doesn't like also .
Everything that I have seen on this website I agree with so far.
As far as press's RCBS is also a good one to use and I still use a Lee press for some of my reloading.
Just go slow and don't get in a hurry that's when you make mistakes .
Double check your loads to start with and NO MAX LOADS till after you learn what you are doing .
Enjoy knowing that the bullet you just hit the center with came form your own hands.

Happy Shooting Redbeard