The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

I've had mine for a year or two now and finally decided I wanted to take it apart and give all the parts a good cleaning. Wow, I have got to say that was a job. It wasn't difficult but it certainly wasn't easy.

I used this guide, the guy did a great job showing how it's done:
http://myweb.cableone.net/leolani/cz-82 ... embly.html

I'll certainly have to print it sometime to have a physical guide as "good" websites tend to disappear over time. Some folks, I read, have problems with the auto-safety/sear spring part. It went first time in for me, I just did what the guy said to do. The other part, the trigger bar wasn't bad to get lined up.

One goofy thing and I can't remember if it did this before, but when I pull the slide back and ease it back forward the trigger make a light noise as the trigger bar pops up to cause the sear to release the hammer. If I pull the slide back and let it go, I don't have the problem. It seems there's a bit of rubbing going on between the trigger bar and the sear or something. I just don't recall if it used to do this before I took it apart. I guess it doesn't much matter. Oh well.

So, to anyone wanting to take their '82 apart, this is an excellent guide to do it and you shouldn't have much problems with it.

Thanks for the heads up.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

If you want to download the CZ 82 military manual written in Czech go to the CZ forum:

http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=38587.0

I traded for another cz 82 yesterday. This one definitely needs to be refinished( my other one is almost okay to leave.) Are there any short cuts to dis-assembly to refinish? Could a guy just take off the slide and grips and paint it? I intend to use high-temp header paint.

sixgun, thank you. Figuring out a way to translate it is going to be a chore...

dwd, I don't think there's a quick way of doing it. I think the refinish would turn out crappy without taking all the guts out. It's really not "difficult" but it really depends on your mechanical experience. If you can work with small pieces and follow the instructions on the website, it shouldn't be too bad. Every time I took a pin out to a certain piece, I laid them together so I knew what pin went with what parts. It may help to print out the picture of the schematic so that when the guy mentions a part and the number, you can correlate it with the schematic and see exactly what he's talking about. Read through the instructions a couple times before actually taking the pistol apart. Take pictures with a camera if you need to so that you can remember how something fit together.

juniustaylor,

Thanks for the link on disassembling the CZ82, very clear and easy to follow, much appreciated.

Papa

I am not trying to argue, I am just trying to learn from others before I make a mistake. But if I were going to paint the slide why would I need to remove the sights? Why would I need to remove the firing pin(even though it is easy to remove)?
When I was cleaning it yesterday the trigger guard pin fell out, so the trigger guard is easy to take off but why would I need to remove the mag release?

dwd

the best reason take the gun apart , is the springs, they may or may not stand the heat , when you bake the header paint in the oven
NORM

That's what I was thinking, like Norm said, the springs. Whatever you do with your paint is your business. I don't think the sights would be a big deal if you left them on. The firing pin and spring are easy to take out, so you may as well. The thing is, if you start spraying paint and it gets in the cracks of moving parts (extractor, mag release, slide stop, etc), it may affect operation. I'm not telling you what to do, you can do as you like. These are just some random thoughts.

Thanks papabear. I had bookmarked it at one time a long time ago when I first found it because I knew I was going to one day take the thing apart.

I bought an Abrasive blast cabinet to refinish my cz 82. what size/type media should I buy to do the job?

dwd

I use this http://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-80- ... 30972.html , then whip down with denatured alcohol, or lacquer thinner, now if you are going to blast this gun you are going to have to take the gun apart
,

NORM

Thanks norm. I picked up 50 lbs at the local farm store today.
I think I can tear down that cz 82 with the help of the website but I'm not so sure about putting it together!

dwd wrote:I picked up 50 lbs at the local farm store today.

The media you use for blasting depends in part on the finish you intend to apply.

I just refinished a couple of CZ-82's using Duracoat. I used glass beads to blast them despite the Duracoat instructions that state that glass beads are not recommended because they tend to polish the surface; so the finish doesn't stay on as well as if you had a light "tooth" to the surface. Duracoat recommends aluminum oxide blasting media.

Duracoat's instructions are correct. After firing 100 rounds through the first pistol I refinished, I had finish flaking off of the "hard edges".

I re-blasted with aluminum oxide, and you could clearly see a difference in the surface of the bare metal as compared to glass beads. The finish on the re-blasted surfaces has held up perfectly for 400 rounds so far.

Fortunately, when you're doing the work yourself on your own pistols, trial and error costs you mostly your own time...

Dwight

I too tried glass beads and they wouldn't cut the original finish on the CZ-82. Aluminum oxide did the trick and I finished it off in H&K Black Duracoat.
There was really no surprises in taking apart the CZ-82. At first I really didn't want to. I cheated the first time and taped off parts of the gun before I blasted it with Aluminum oxide. Tried the glass beads that came with the spray gun but it did nothing. All this did was force media into parts of the gun that I could never get out. So after my auto safety sear spring got weak and needed replaced I took the complete gun apart. It wasn't hard, the pin in the safety latch was hard to get out but remember some of these guns are pushing 28 years old and who knows how many times they have been fired or ever taken apart. The trigger and trigger bar will make you go mad until you see it goes together upside down. The Auto safety spring can be a PIA at first, best to take the sear, ejector and auto safety sear with the spring and assemble them outside the gun, holding them together with round toothpicks to see how they work together. You can replace the sear spring by just taking the grips off, removing the tension from the main spring, take the hammer pivot pin out, now you have enough room to lower the safety latch and remove the pins holding the ejector and auto safety and sear spring out. The Sear, hammer and hammer lever stay in the frame.