Trigger harder at the end of Pull?

nscale · Post by **nscale** » February 4th, 2006, 2:03 pm

After some wheeling and dealing with a fellow forum member, I found myself with a aselection of new springs to try in my P-64.
After trying them all I ended up leaving the 14# spring in the gun. It made a drastic difference, but it is still a pretty hard pull.

Getting bold and using the instructions found on this site, I completly dissassembled my P-64 for the first time. While down I lightly polished the sear and hammer to see if that helped. Not much change.
Now that the pull is lighter i have noticed the last 1/4 of the trigger pull is a lot harder than the first 3/4. Is this normal?

My Maks are pretty much consistant all the way through the trigger pull, but my P-64 has a noticable hard spot that must be overcome to complete the trigger pull.

Any suggestions on how to remove this hard spot would be appreciated.
I will say, I highly recommend the spring change. It was impossible to use the DA before this change, but now it can be used.

And thanks to b52Stan for his help.

jbailey · Post by **jbailey** » February 5th, 2006, 6:37 pm

nscale - The force needed to pull the trigger should increase smoothly (well, sort of smoothly) until the hammer falls. If there is a noticable 'catch' or 'snag', something isn't right. My '64's DA pull was mechanically IMPOSSIBLE when first tried and the trouble was traced to the corners of the mainspring strut hanging up on the edges of the slot in the hammer, in which it has to travel. Careful stoning and polishing removed the problem, but I was still left with a DA trigger that I couldn't use. So I "disabled" the hammer drop feature (don't like them anyway!) to make cocked and locked possible.

nscale · Post by **nscale** » February 9th, 2006, 5:40 pm

Thanks jbailey. I will check out this out and see if there is a hang up situation.
Again, thanks for your help
Nsclae

fjblackesq · Post by **fjblackesq** » February 9th, 2006, 11:58 pm

I replaced the trigger spring to 16# by Wollf--- It is greaqt --about the same (as far as I can tell) as the action of my Walther PPK. What a relief !!! I do not have a scale!!!
Now I want to get into getting the recoil spring adjusted heavier so I don't destroy the slide/frame on recoils !!!~ Anyone done it yet!!!

jbailey · Post by **jbailey** » February 10th, 2006, 12:25 am

Once you have learned how to change mainsprings easily, try this. Put in the weakest spring you can find in your junkbox, that allows full range of action. Of course it won't fire a primer, but it will allow you to carefully feel/study the entire trigger travel, looking for snags, hangups, burrs, whatevers. This is how I found my problem and was able to easily judge various solutions, including polishing the sides of the trigger bar, frame cavity, sides of hammer, anywhere there was friction. Obviously, be sure to put the regular spring back in, or you might wind up with the ultimate 'hair trigger'.

novgarod · Post by **novgarod** » February 20th, 2006, 4:14 pm

jbailey, I know you have been working on recoil spring mods, but I think some relief with the DA trigger stacking, as you have corrected to a noticable degree, could relieve some pressure to resort to much lighter main springs. Actually the dynamics of the original DA trigger pull, i.e., severe stacking at the end of the trigger pull, does not change with main spring change, it is just easier to overcome.

Any chance of providing pictures (with arrows) to show what you did to relieve the stacking? Which steps were the most affective and did you need to further disassemble the trigger-hammer mechanism?

Thanks for your help - meanwhile, I will try your "weakest spring" technique to locate the frictional snags during my trigger travel.

jbailey · Post by **jbailey** » February 21st, 2006, 9:40 pm

Novgarod: (Govarit paruski?) I can't do pix, sorry. I removed the trigger bar and polished both sides of it where it contacts the frame (inside) and the slide (outside) Also the two leftmost surfaces at the tail, where it can contact the mainspring strut and the side of the hammer. To find the real snag between the mainspring strut and the slot in the hammer, both were removed from the frame. I THINK the stacking is caused by friction factors, because if you carefully watch the mainspring compression near the end of cocking it manually, the spring is only compressed a little (compared to the beginning) and the mainspring strut almost "toggles over" as the SA sear drops in. In my case, I eliminated the mechanical "lock" (the ULTIMATE stacking), but my 63 yr-old trigger finger still couldn't do the job (so I went to the cocked and locked modification.)

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