Handgun prep...

Info, pictures, advice...
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candrnut
Posts: 9
Joined: June 6th, 2006, 7:22 am

Handgun prep...

Post by candrnut »

Thanks for the welcome ABWEHR. Thought I might get a bit wordy again. When I get a milsurp I start by cleaning the bore (Break Free CLP etc.). Than I break it down as far as possible (The Gun Digest Book of FIREARMS ASSEMBLY/DISASSEMBLY by J.B. Wood is a great assist). Next, if it is really dirty, blast it out with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. You can usually get most parts off, including the firing pin and spring. Most of the time the extractor and ejector are better left in place. All parts then go into the kitchen sink! with the hottest water tolerable and dish soap. I scrub all parts with an assortment of brushes (toothbrushes, bore brushes etc.). Next, the same thing with hot clean water. The big parts (slide and frame) I hold with a hand towel and dry using my wife's hair drier, then into the toaster oven. I bring the oven up to heat then turn it off and leave the parts inside as it cools. I do this two or three times. Next, with the parts still warm, I use a very small brush (1/2inch, few bristles) and apply, a drop at a time, oil first to the extractor and ejector area. The warmth will cause the oil to suck in and lubricate. I paint, using the same small brush, all contact surfaces and reassemble. The grips, of course, are also off and cleaned. I have a good old world formula for wood grips if anyone wants it. Also, disassemble the clip and clean. I've been amazed at the amount of crud one can find inside of a clip. Bore brushes are great for the inside of the clip and the spring. I wipe, with my fingers, a little oil on the spring and reassemble. For dinged up screws I file, emery and buff (metal polish), clean and then warm and blue with Birchwood Casey cold blue. Two or three times, using 0000 steel wool to buff, after each bluing will usually do a good job. Last, a light coat of oil in the bore. I know the hot water sounds a bit drastic but I've been doing it for years with no problem. You just have to make sure that everything is dry before oil and assembly. Hope no one fell asleep while reading this, I tried to keep it as short as possible...
abwehr
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Joined: November 8th, 2005, 11:31 am
Location: Upstate SC

Handgun prep...

Post by abwehr »

candrnut,

Now this is the way to clean a new weapon! Thanks for posting your procedure. Regardless what the firearm, new or used, it is a good idea to clean like this and properly lube. It saves a lot of problems when you go to the range the first time.

It seems that many folks just take it out of the box and head to the range. Then feeding and extracting problems happen and they are not happy with their new purchase. Proper cleaning and lubrication is essential for good operation. A firearm is like any quality piece of equipment, it need lube.
tunnelrat
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Posts: 190
Joined: January 5th, 2006, 2:05 pm
Location: Toledo, Ohio

Handgun prep...

Post by tunnelrat »

Excellent! Thank you. I've printed out a copy to keep for myself.
candrnut
Posts: 9
Joined: June 6th, 2006, 7:22 am

Handgun prep...

Post by candrnut »

A note of clarification and additions. I said 1/2 inch brush to apply oil. What I use is a brush with 1/2 inch long bristles. The width is only about 1/8 inch, just enough to hold about a drop of oil. I keep it in the box that holds my Brownells Magna-Tip Super-Set (screw driver set for firearms) also have an additional set of Brownells Magna-Tip Thin Bit Set. The thin bits come in handy for european grip screws which, quite often, are too narrow for the other bits. A good set of screw driver bits is a must and can save a lot of grief during disassembly and reassembly. They are a bit pricey but worth it. Lastly, for milsurp information on line that is worth its weight in gold, check out www.surplusrifle.com which covers just about everything from A toZ. P.S. Tunnelrat, thanks for the good words...
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