The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

Welcome, Dan.

Okay, now I see what you are talking about. It looks like the slide stop lever has somehow become wedged into the bolt face. This may keep the slide from going forward, but will not keep it from moving backward. Here is a link to a thread on the topic: http://www.p64resource.com/forum/viewtopic.php?...

To remove the slide, you must first pull the trigger guard down in the front and lock it open by pushing a little to either side. This will then allow you to pull the slide back far enough to lift and remove it.

Will do, sir. I have fired and cleaned the M-57 once since doing this and it seems to be at least as durable as any paint I have ever used to mark sights. Another range trip is being planned and will include the P-64. I am really looking forward to shooting it with this modification. It has the smal...

I did this to one of my P-64s and a new Zastava M-57. What a difference it makes on them both. Thanks for sharing. I did not bother to shine them as it was not needed. I made sure to keep the finished side of the foil up.

Glad you got it set up and working.

First, if you do not have a case gauge, I suggest you get one to check every round that you handload to avoid chambering and feeding issues. To use the Lee die first, seat the bullet to the desired depth. Second, make sure you back out the bullet seating portion of the die before setting up the crim...

Welcome to the boards. An introduction is in order. As for the "very common disconnector issue", I have no idea to what you are referring. Perhaps you can elaborate. I know that sometimes the trigger bar may be slightly bent so it may not engage the sear properly, but this is the first I a...

I use the Lee case length gauges and cutters when trimming my brass using a small electric drill. You need to get the 9x18 Makarov gauge. Also be sure to pick up a case reaming tool. I use a Lyman hand tool for reaming case mouths. It comes with pocket cleaning and reaming bits for both small and la...

I use the Lee 3 die set with good results. I use a light taper crimp that is done in the same step as seating the bullet. Follow the instructions that come with the dies and you should get the results you are seeking. The more of a crimp that you use, the more it will weaken the brass over time. For...

Good article, Curly. I generally grab my .38 snubby when I hear something go bump in the night. When training with it, I always shoot double action because it is the way most rounds would be fired if in a gun battle. Cocking the hammer for a more accurate shot would only be necessary in a hostage si...

You may be better advised to sell the Ultra rounds or trade them for an equal value in 9x18 Mak.

Based only on the dimensions that I have found,... It seems to me that you could take once fired ultra brass and resize it using a 9x18 Makarov full length sizing die, then trim it down a little. Basically the same process that you would use when starting with 9x19 brass. Careful to check the used b...

I use CCI small pistol primers and 4.0 grains of Unique pistol powder with an OAL of .970". This is using the Berry's 95 grain FMJ bullets.

If you use a different bullet, you may need a different charge and/or OAL.

I have had good luck using Berry's 95 grain FMJs and the Lee three die set. You set the seating die to crimp and seat in one operation, if desired. I use a light taper crimp. My handloads feed perfectly in my P-64s, cycle the guns properly and are consistently more accurate than my shooting abilities.